Caring for your tomato plants

After you've prepared your soil, purchased or raised healthy plants and put them in the ground, your tomato plants will need tender, loving care during the season.  There are conditions that can completely destroy your tomato plants, along with your visions of big, red, juicy tomatoes if you're not aware what you need to do to protect them.

Diseases

In my experience as a Midwest gardener, the biggest threat over the season is disease.  A typical spring in Iowa is cool and wet and then summers are very humid which are perfect conditions for disease pathogens to get started and, believe me, it's not good to let them get started.

Early and late tomato blight starts with spots on the bottom leaves and stem.  The leaves will start to curl and turn brown and will progress up the plant and will eventually kill it. The spots are actually fungus spores similar to mushrooms and when they're disturbed, they will release thousands of spores that will eventually spread the disease over the entire plant.  It's very destructive but can be controlled with an effective fungicide.  I use a copper based fungicide called  Soap-Shield^® Flowable Liquid Copper Fungicide that I order from a catalog but I've found that Daconil fungicide is 100% effective also and can be purchased at most retail garden suppliers.

BUT, even though fungicides can be effective, it doesn't do any good if you don't make timely applications.  By that I mean you should start spraying before evidence of disease shows up, when plants are about 2' tall, and then spray after every rain and at the first sign of leaf curl.  If you have a rainy period, that may mean spraying your plants two or maybe even three times in a week like I did up until the end of June last season!  This is important!!  If the disease gets a good foothold and you ignore it, your crop will be drastically reduced. 

Watering

When the rains stop and the sun starts bearing down, you need to make sure that your plants have adequate moisture.  You can help this by adding a thick layer of grass clippings or straw around the base of your plants.  The rule of thumb is 1" of water a week but, as with all rules of thumb, extreme temperatures may call for more than that.

The type of soil that you have is important.  If you have a heavy clay soil, water doesn't flow through very fast so you don't need to water as much.  If you have sandy soil, water can flow through very quickly so you'll need to water more often.  The solution for both of these types of soil is to add organic material after each season and you'll build a very loose soil that will drain well but hold nutrients. (see Soil for Tomatoes)

Before each watering, you can pull aside some of the mulch that you put in place around the base of your plants and feel it for moisture content.  This is also a good time to look for any pests that shouldn't be there.

When watering, ALWAYS water at the base of the plant.  NEVER, get water on the leaves.  I usually, remove the spray nozzle from my hose and turn on the water to a slow flow.  While the water is running, this is a good time to inspect your plants for pests, such as tomato horn worms, and any signs of disease.

Weeding 

Weeds need water too so they will rob your tomato plants if you let them.  Mulching is a big help here.  If you don't have a big enough yard to supply grass clippings, ask your neighbors or drive around on Sunday afternoon.  You can find bag fulls of it and people are more than happy to part with it.  Weeding is also important because it prevents them from going to seed and spreading next year.

Tomato Cages

If your raising an indeterminate tomato variety, you need to provide support.  I'll be adding a post on how to make your own tomato cages but whatever you do, don't waste your money on those weak, 3' tall wire supports that you see at some garden centers.  A 7' tomato plant that's loaded with tomatoes requires substantial support.  You don't want your indeterminate vines sprawling around the ground.  You won't be able to walk through them and many will rot from laying on the ground.

For additional information on raising tomatoes, visit my website http://www.rmarketplaceonline.com/raisingtomatoes.html

Sharing my experiences to help you with yours!
Tomato Rog

Deep planting your tomato plants

Planting time can be iffy.  Normally after the last frost date in your area, you can put your tomato plants in the ground.  However, if your getting some cool weather or the forecast for the next few days is cool, windy and rainy, hold off until you get a nice sunny, warm, calm day.  Don't worry, your plants will catch up quickly.  On May 17th, 2011, we had an unusually late light frost that nipped my plants and I thought I was going to have to replace two of the six.  I sprayed them with fish emulsion to encourage new foliage growth and they came back like gangbusters.  The below photo was taken June 1, less than 2 weeks after the frost.  If you enlarge it, you can still see the yellow droopy leaves on the bottom but with nice dark green foliage up towards the top of the plant.

 

When you do put your plants in the ground, remember that deeper is always better, assuming your soil has good drainage.  The reasons are first, when you plant them deep, the stem of the plant that's underground grows more roots which will help plant growth and help anchor or stabilize it when it gets big.....huge.  Second, it keeps the roots cooler and third, the deeper roots will retain moisture longer which will help during those hot, dry spells.  Depending how tall your plants are, you can actually pick off the lateral stems and leaves up to the level you're going to plant them.  You can plant them leaving only the top few leaves above ground.  Don't worry, they'll soon shoot up to their original height and then beyond.....way beyond.

I need to mention something here about plant spacing.  I space my tomato plants 5' apart.  That sounds like a lot and looks like a lot when you first plant them but when they get big, there won't be much space between them (see photo).  The reason you need to give them plenty of space is for air circulation.  If they're too close and they are against each other, they'll stay wet after a rain which will make them more susceptible to disease.  Plus, it's easier to walk around them and pick those big, ripe tomatoes.

After planting, I usually give them some Miracle Grow (follow label directions) to stimulate root growth.  Then I mulch them with grass clippings and stand back and watch them grow.  Here's another tip that I do for not only my young tomato plants but other transplants.  I have old coffee cans that I removed both ends and I place them over the plants and leave them for a week or two to give the plant stems and leaves a chance to thicken and toughen up.  Iowa springs are normally very windy and it can really rip that tender foliage so the cans provide good protection. 

If you choose to grow tomato plants in pots, make sure the pots are adequate size and, above all, use a good potting soil.  I recommend Miracle Grow potting soil.  If you're using pots, you'll need to water more frequently.  During hot, dry spells that could mean twice or maybe three times a day.  If you're going to be gone a few days, arrange for a friend to water them for you or investigate self watering pots.                                                                             

Look for other posts offering information on caring for your tomato plants and protecting them from disease through the season.

For more information, visit my website.
http://www.rmarketplaceonline.com/raisingtomatoes.html

Sharing my experiences to help you with yours!
Tomato Rog

Starting tomato plants from seed

So now you've decided which type and variety of tomatoes that you want to raise, you have the seed and you're ready to get them started.  You need to purchase a tray with a tall clear lid and some peat pots from any garden products supplier.

Don't get too anxious!  If you plant them too soon, they get spindly and fall over and need to be planted in a trench.  I live in Iowa with a last frost date around May 10th so I start my tomato plants the last of March.  Even then, they're about 18 inches tall, not counting the peat pot, when I put them in the ground.  That's about perfect for deep planting which I explain in  http://raisingbigtomatoes.blogspot.com/2012/02/deep-planting-your-tomato-plants.html

  I start my seed in 4" peat pots that I have filled with Miracle Grow potting soil.  It's very important that you use a high quality potting soil.  Some gardeners start their seed in small seedling starter trays and then transplant them into larger pots when they get bigger but I've always thought that is an unnecessary step.  The advantage of starting them in peat pots is that when you're ready to put them in the garden, you just put them, pot and all, into the hole. 

After you've filled the peat pots with good potting soil and watered each pot, your ready to plant the seed.  I use the point of a pencil to poke 2 holes about 1/4" deep into the potting soil of each pot.  I always plant 2 seeds to each pot in case one doesn't germinate but I rarely have a problem with that since I make sure to get high quality seed from a source that I trust.  I happen to order mine from Gurney's catalog.  After you've made the holes and placed a seed in each hole, I just pinch the holes shut, put the clear lid on the tray and place the tray in a sunny window (make sure your plants will get plenty of sun). 

Within a week you'll be getting tomato plant sprouts!  After they get about 1" tall, you can pinch off the extra plant (smaller of the two).  

Concerning watering, you'll notice condensation on the cover after planting and you won't need to water until sometime after they have sprouted.  Remove the cover when the plants are tall enough that they're almost touching the top of the cover. You can easily see when the soil is getting dry.  As the plants grow, they will need more and more water and soon you will need to water every day.  Don't let your plants droop from lack of water, it stresses them.  Also, you should turn the tray around 180 degrees every day so the plants get even exposure to the sunlight and aren't bent the same direction all the time. 

Finally, when the weather warms and about a week prior to planting, set them outdoors (only when the wind is calm) in the sun for an hour or two a few days to harden them to the outdoors.  You will always get some transplant shock after planting but they'll quickly come out of it as long as the weather is warm.  I fertilize with some Miracle Grow at planting time.

Sharing my experiences to help you with yours!
Tomato Rog

What kind of tomatoes should I grow?

There are endless varieties of tomatoes and you could spend the whole growing season just trying to decide which variety you should try. 

If this is going to be your first year growing tomatoes, I'll give you some information that will simplify your decision.  First, you need to know what you plan on using the tomatoes for.  Will you be canning?  Making ketchup? Giving some away to neighbors or the local nursing homes?  Or do you just want some for fresh eating during the summer?

If you just want a limited supply for maybe salads or slicers, you can grow the small cherry tomatoes which mature earlier or maybe one regular sized tomato plant.  If you're only going to grow one or two plants, you have the choice of digging a small plot or raising them in a pot.  If you raise them in a pot, good potting soil is important and I recommend Miracle Grow potting soil.  Also, if you raise your tomato plants in a pot, remember that you'll have to water more frequently so if your away for a few days during hot weather, you'll need to arrange for someone to water them.  If allowed to go dry even for a short period, it will stress the plant and affect the quality and quantity of the tomatoes that you get.

If you're like me and you want plenty of tomatoes all summer long for fresh eating, canning and giving to friends and family, then there are many varieties you can grow.  First, you need to decide if you want to raise determinate plants or indeterminate plants.  Determinate varieties grow kind of bushy and low to the ground so they don't need to be staked.  The important thing about determinate tomato plants is that they bloom once and then the tomatoes will ripen over about a 3 week span and that's all the tomatoes that you'll get for the season.  Some people prefer determinate plants because they can do all their canning over a short period and be done with it.  Indeterminate plants, on the other hand, will grow, bloom and produce tomatoes all summer right up until frost.  Indeterminate plants get very big (see the 2011 tomato crop post) and require a substantial cage to support them.  If you purchase your plants, make sure you look at the small plastic stake that should come in the pot to identify if the plant is determinate or indeterminate.  If it doesn't say, ask someone at the garden center.  If you're going to raise your plants from seed, make sure you check the catalog information for that seed or check the seed packet for the type of plant.  If you want indeterminate plants but purchase determinate plants by mistake, you'll be very disappointed.

Big Beef

Concerning varieties, it's overwhelming.  I have experimented over the past 40 years and found that some of the best indeterminate varieties are Big Boy, Better Boy and Big girl.  About 10 years ago I tried a variety called Big Beef (VFFNT) and I've used it ever since.  They are hardy, disease resistant and unbelievably productive (see 2011 tomato crop post).  I purchase my Big Beef Tomato seed from Gurney's because I know they are best quality and always have 100% germination.  For a determinate variety, Celebrity is a very popular choice.  Any of these are great for fresh eating and canning.  If you want to try making your own tomato paste or ketchup, Roma is best known. 

If you know someone that raises tomatoes, ask them which ones they like and why.  Also, if you have room, try several different varieties and soon you discover your favorites.

For more information, visit my website http://www.rmarketplaceonline.com/raisingtomatoes.html

Sharing my experiences to help you with yours!

Tomato Rog

Soil for Tomatoes

Fortunately, tomatoes can grow in a wide range of soil PH (about 5.5 - 7.5) however, 6.0 - 7.0 is ideal.  If you're not sure what the PH of your soil is or if you've had some problems raising tomatoes, you should have it tested.  You can either buy a test kit or meter like the one you see here and do it yourself or you can take some samples of soil to your local County Extension Service.  For a small fee, they'll give you a full report on PH and fertilization plus make recommendations for amending your soil if necessary.

The soil should be loose with good drainage and plenty of organic material.  I always put all my grass clippings and leaves on the garden and then till everything in. Doing that provides a fertile soil with plenty of worms to keep it loose and well drained.

Because I give back to my soil, I haven't tested it for years.  When I plant my tomato plants, I fertilize once with Miracle Grow to help the roots get started and that's it for fertilizing.  If you fertilize your plants over the growing season, remember that tomato plants need more phosphorous than nitrogen.  Too much nitrogen can cause excessive foliage growth with few tomatoes.  You can purchase fertilizer specifically made for tomatoes but make sure you follow the directions.

The soil is the most IMPORTANT part when growing any plant.  Make sure you're sustaining your soil by giving back what you take every season.  You can do that by making sure you add plenty of green (grass clippings, disease free plant growth, etc.) and brown (straw, leaves, twigs, etc.) organic material and tilling it in.  After a couple of years you'll notice a big difference in your soil and the plants that you grow in it.

For more information, visit my website http://www.rmarketplaceonline.com/raisingtomatoes.html

Sharing my experiences to help you with yours!
Tomato Rog

2011 Tomato Crop

I had a great tomato crop in 2011.  I decided to keep count of all the ripe tomatoes that a picked from my six plants.  From the first two that I picked on August 4th on through October 16, I picked a total of 683 big, juicy tomatoes.  My tomato plants grew to a height of 7 1/2 feet and continually bloomed and produced right up to frost!

The growing conditions for tomato plants were terrible.  We had a long, cool, wet spring which included a frost on May 17, followed by a hot,dry summer.                                                                            

Cool,wet conditions are perfect for disease pathogens, such as early and late tomato blight, to grow and spread.  I started spraying my plants soon after planting, before any evidence of disease started to show up.  I started out spraying my usual copper based fungicide and when I say spraying them I mean after EVERY rain.  That meant some weeks I was spraying two or three times.  In fact, I ran out of my spray and had to get a different brand at a garden center which worked great. (See Caring for your tomato plants post)

Between sprayings, I could see some of the leaves starting to curl.  That is the most obvious sign of a disease problem and you need to address it immediately.  I could see some spotting start on some of the lower leaves but, as you can see in the above photo taken August 6th, I kept them pretty much disease free all season. 

The wet spring was immediatly followed by hot, dry weather all summer.  I mulched heavily around the base of each plant with grass clippings and kept them watered.  Some weeks when it was in the upper 90s I would water them twice a week.  Large, indeterminate tomato plants that are loaded with tomatoes need a lot of water.  When watering, it's important to water only at the base of the plant and not on the leaves.  I usually remove the spray nozzle and turn the water on to produce a low pressure stream.

Sharing my experiences to help you with yours! 
Tomato Rog

WELCOME!

Welcome!  While this is a new blog, I think that you will find it very informative.  I have over 40 years experience raising tomatoes and I am going to share that experience with anyone that is looking for helpful information. 

You will not only be able to read about raising tomatoes based on up to date, seasonal information but you will be able to see recent pictures of my, and hopefully others, tomato plants that will give you a better understanding about how tomatoes grow. 

I had a tremendous 2011 tomato crop even though the weather was far from ideal for raising tomatoes.  I'm going to show you pictures, explain the potential problems that I faced and how I avoided them.  So check out my next post "2011 tomato crop".

If I could offer only one piece of advice for a new tomato grower, it would be "Be aware."  Be aware of what tomato plants require to thrive, be aware at the first sign of problems and be aware of how to address the problem.

Tomatoes are truely a treasure of summer!  My hope is that this forum will bring together a diverse group of experienced tomato growers that will freely offer their experience and help!

For more detailed information on raising tomatoes, visit my website at http://www.rmarketplaceonline.com/raisingtomatoes.html

I'll be looking forward to reading about your successes or answering your questions.

Sharing my experiences to help you with yours!

Tomato Rog